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And then, out the window, there it was—the modular structure where I’d be living, perched on stilts atop the glacier like a water bug on a frozen pond. The Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, completed in 2008, is the third station built by the U.S. government at the geographic South Pole. The first, from 1956, was buried under the ever-accumulating ice, and the second, from 1975, was preëmptively dismantled to avoid a similar fate. In keeping with the structure’s stated mission, it is administered by the National Science Foundation. The building’s shiny, dark metal sheathing might have appeared sinister in any other environment, but not here, set against the sparkling white. I climbed down the narrow airplane stairs in my oversized boots, then emerged onto the wide-open landscape, where I stood awed by the pristine expanse meeting the curve of the horizon in every direction.